VENIZIA
5-7 June 2008
Our Italy trip started in Venice, the sinking city. By the time we got to our hotel and settled in the first day, it was already early afternoon, and we didn’t have much time left. Mummy, Sharon and I were exhausted from all the traveling the day before, doing a whirlwind tour of London and waking up early in the morning to catch the bus to Stansted. But we pressed on and decided to walk around Venice. It was supposed to be small and walkable, but the many waterways and narrow streets formed a complicated maze that it was impossible not to get lost. Essentially, Venice is built on 117 islands, and has 150 canals and 450 bridges. Yet, only 3 bridges cross the Grand Canal, the main waterway. The problem with not having any vehicles on the roads and water taxis costing €6 per trip is that once you’ve committed to walking, the only way to get home is to walk out of the island, no matter how tired, far away or lost you are.
Our walk into the heart of the city was a pleasant one. We gave up navigating using the map halfway because we found signs leading us to San Marco, where we wanted to go. So while going through the tiny alleys and small canals which lead up to the doors of the colourful houses, we enjoyed the tranquility and uniqueness of the place. Going in and out of shops selling Venetian masks, glass, Italian leather and the like was fun, and stopping by each Gelataria to check out the prices helped make the way seem shorter. On the way in, we shared our 1st Italian Gelato, and it didn’t disappoint. We reached the Rialto bridge, one of the 3, and also the icon of Venice, watched the gondolas and other water taxis go by and went shopping at the nearby market place. Piazza San Marco also looked spectacular when we finally got to it. We were transfixed for a while, trying to take in everything from the Torre dell’Orologio, a high clock tower on which stands 2 bronze Moors which strike a gigantic clock on the hour, to the long Procurative Nuove, the Ala Napoleonica, which Napoleon used as his palace and ballroom after commenting that the Piazza was the ‘finest drawing room’ in Europe. Most of all, we were observing how ferocious the pigeons on St Mark’s Square were. They were totally unafraid of the human species and made their way to the shoulders, arms, heads and backs of tourists who stupidly have food on them. There were hoards of them (I’m not sure if tourists still outnumber pigeons!) and they all decided to fly across the square towards us as we were running across it, and since they’re so fearless, they flew so low, brushing past faces and intimidating pigeon haters (like Sharon) who had to face the whole flock coming straight at them at eye-level. Very disgusting indeed. But we did make it safely to the other side of the square towards the water front, where the doges’ palace still stands. It was the seat of the Republic’s bureaucracy, government and main prisons. Walking along the waterfront where rows of shiny black gondolas are parked, we crossed the bridge of sighs, so called because of the sighs prisoners made on their way into the dungeons. By this time we were completely spent and ready for a good night’s rest, though the sky was still bright. Once again, we decided against navigating and decided to follow the signs back to the mainland. Little did we know that the signs would bring us on a huge trek around Venice, and only brought us back some 2.5 hours later. Poor Mummy suffered the most because we had to cross gazillion bridges on the way, and her knee was hurting, no doubt from lugging all the suitcases up and down the stairs in the tube stations the day before. On the way we grabbed some more gelato (actually we are quite proud of ourselves for finding that particular shop that we wanted to patronize, tucked in some corner on some small street).
David finally arrived late that night. Long after everyone had fallen asleep and the (1-star) hotel’s reception had closed for the night. But thank God he arrived safely, because the last time I saw him was back in Copenhagen.
The next day, we decided that we had enough of walking, and that we won’t scrimp on the water taxis anymore, so we bought a 24 hour transport pass and made sure that we made full use of it. We headed to 2 islands off Venice. First, Murano, which is famous for its glass making industry. So we visited the glass factory to watch some glass-blowing, which is pretty amazing, I could never imagine glass to be so soft at some stage that you can actually blow it like a balloon. Next, we called at Burano, famous for its lace-making industry. The houses are pastel-coloured there, so pretty! But, the islands were a lot further than we expected them to be, so we wasted another few hours just traveling on the water taxis. (After a while, it wasn’t so fun anymore). We managed to get back to San Marco Square just minutes before the Basilica di San Marco closed, but they didn’t allow bags inside so I stood outside to watch the bags while the rest went in. Don’t think they managed to see the remains of St Mark though it’s supposedly there. After walking around a bit with David (because he didn’t get to the day before) and attempting to buy train tickets to Rome at the train station, we decided to take the water taxi back to St Mark’s Sq just to see it at night, and to make use of the tripod we’ve been carrying around for nightshots. It was pretty fun just posing around with the 2 partron saints of Venice (St Mark and St Theodore) and comparing whose pictures were better, then we decided to be more cultured and listen to musicians playing for restaurant guests on the square. They were pretty good, and the square was almost romantic at night, with old couples dancing to the music and the crowd swaying to the beat. Leaving Venice was a lot more convenient and less strenuous on the legs that night, thanks to the water taxis.
Leaving Venice (the area) for Rome, was a lot more complicated. Train tickets cost a lot more than expected, some €59 one way, so we opted for the slower train which would take us about 6 hours to get to Rome. Alas! Our lack of knowledge of Italian caused us to make a huge mistake. We got onto the wrong train headed for Verona instead. (because that was the train that was to depart from the same platform before the one we were supposed to take, but it was late so the signboard showed our train instead. Sigh). Good thing we met a kind Italian family (the 1st nice Italians we actually met) who tried to help us read the time table. Not that it really helped (but the gesture was nice), we ended up having to top up about to the €59 ticket anyway, to get the next train to rome by that night…
5-7 June 2008
Our Italy trip started in Venice, the sinking city. By the time we got to our hotel and settled in the first day, it was already early afternoon, and we didn’t have much time left. Mummy, Sharon and I were exhausted from all the traveling the day before, doing a whirlwind tour of London and waking up early in the morning to catch the bus to Stansted. But we pressed on and decided to walk around Venice. It was supposed to be small and walkable, but the many waterways and narrow streets formed a complicated maze that it was impossible not to get lost. Essentially, Venice is built on 117 islands, and has 150 canals and 450 bridges. Yet, only 3 bridges cross the Grand Canal, the main waterway. The problem with not having any vehicles on the roads and water taxis costing €6 per trip is that once you’ve committed to walking, the only way to get home is to walk out of the island, no matter how tired, far away or lost you are.
Our walk into the heart of the city was a pleasant one. We gave up navigating using the map halfway because we found signs leading us to San Marco, where we wanted to go. So while going through the tiny alleys and small canals which lead up to the doors of the colourful houses, we enjoyed the tranquility and uniqueness of the place. Going in and out of shops selling Venetian masks, glass, Italian leather and the like was fun, and stopping by each Gelataria to check out the prices helped make the way seem shorter. On the way in, we shared our 1st Italian Gelato, and it didn’t disappoint. We reached the Rialto bridge, one of the 3, and also the icon of Venice, watched the gondolas and other water taxis go by and went shopping at the nearby market place. Piazza San Marco also looked spectacular when we finally got to it. We were transfixed for a while, trying to take in everything from the Torre dell’Orologio, a high clock tower on which stands 2 bronze Moors which strike a gigantic clock on the hour, to the long Procurative Nuove, the Ala Napoleonica, which Napoleon used as his palace and ballroom after commenting that the Piazza was the ‘finest drawing room’ in Europe. Most of all, we were observing how ferocious the pigeons on St Mark’s Square were. They were totally unafraid of the human species and made their way to the shoulders, arms, heads and backs of tourists who stupidly have food on them. There were hoards of them (I’m not sure if tourists still outnumber pigeons!) and they all decided to fly across the square towards us as we were running across it, and since they’re so fearless, they flew so low, brushing past faces and intimidating pigeon haters (like Sharon) who had to face the whole flock coming straight at them at eye-level. Very disgusting indeed. But we did make it safely to the other side of the square towards the water front, where the doges’ palace still stands. It was the seat of the Republic’s bureaucracy, government and main prisons. Walking along the waterfront where rows of shiny black gondolas are parked, we crossed the bridge of sighs, so called because of the sighs prisoners made on their way into the dungeons. By this time we were completely spent and ready for a good night’s rest, though the sky was still bright. Once again, we decided against navigating and decided to follow the signs back to the mainland. Little did we know that the signs would bring us on a huge trek around Venice, and only brought us back some 2.5 hours later. Poor Mummy suffered the most because we had to cross gazillion bridges on the way, and her knee was hurting, no doubt from lugging all the suitcases up and down the stairs in the tube stations the day before. On the way we grabbed some more gelato (actually we are quite proud of ourselves for finding that particular shop that we wanted to patronize, tucked in some corner on some small street).
David finally arrived late that night. Long after everyone had fallen asleep and the (1-star) hotel’s reception had closed for the night. But thank God he arrived safely, because the last time I saw him was back in Copenhagen.
The next day, we decided that we had enough of walking, and that we won’t scrimp on the water taxis anymore, so we bought a 24 hour transport pass and made sure that we made full use of it. We headed to 2 islands off Venice. First, Murano, which is famous for its glass making industry. So we visited the glass factory to watch some glass-blowing, which is pretty amazing, I could never imagine glass to be so soft at some stage that you can actually blow it like a balloon. Next, we called at Burano, famous for its lace-making industry. The houses are pastel-coloured there, so pretty! But, the islands were a lot further than we expected them to be, so we wasted another few hours just traveling on the water taxis. (After a while, it wasn’t so fun anymore). We managed to get back to San Marco Square just minutes before the Basilica di San Marco closed, but they didn’t allow bags inside so I stood outside to watch the bags while the rest went in. Don’t think they managed to see the remains of St Mark though it’s supposedly there. After walking around a bit with David (because he didn’t get to the day before) and attempting to buy train tickets to Rome at the train station, we decided to take the water taxi back to St Mark’s Sq just to see it at night, and to make use of the tripod we’ve been carrying around for nightshots. It was pretty fun just posing around with the 2 partron saints of Venice (St Mark and St Theodore) and comparing whose pictures were better, then we decided to be more cultured and listen to musicians playing for restaurant guests on the square. They were pretty good, and the square was almost romantic at night, with old couples dancing to the music and the crowd swaying to the beat. Leaving Venice was a lot more convenient and less strenuous on the legs that night, thanks to the water taxis.
Leaving Venice (the area) for Rome, was a lot more complicated. Train tickets cost a lot more than expected, some €59 one way, so we opted for the slower train which would take us about 6 hours to get to Rome. Alas! Our lack of knowledge of Italian caused us to make a huge mistake. We got onto the wrong train headed for Verona instead. (because that was the train that was to depart from the same platform before the one we were supposed to take, but it was late so the signboard showed our train instead. Sigh). Good thing we met a kind Italian family (the 1st nice Italians we actually met) who tried to help us read the time table. Not that it really helped (but the gesture was nice), we ended up having to top up about to the €59 ticket anyway, to get the next train to rome by that night…
Always had this image of masquerade parties there...
ReplyDeleteDo they sell venetian blinds?
If I ever get to go there... I'll probably amuse myself by chucking a shower of bread crumbs onto unsuspecting passersby... Or maybe the pope. And maybe he'll get bird flu... oops!
Hi Carol....Venice is lovely. I have a big pic of it in my sitting room.... the copper thingy.... never been there but your photos and description of the trip is good for now :)
ReplyDeleteHmmm played frisbee in Hyde Park (other post)....sounds great. Been there and loved it.
Looking forward to your return. If you are not too tired, hope to see you in church. If not, during the sushi buffet thingy.
Are you going back to school the following week you land?